A Woman’s Guide to Vintage Timepieces
By: Chris Van Hoven | Posted: November 17, 2021Vintage watches aren’t purely a masculine pursuit. Some of the most iconic timepieces are arguably better suited to a lady’s wrist. We go over some key collectible vintage watches every woman must have – known for iconic style, innovation, or sheer versatility.
Cartier Tank
Diana, Princess of Wales sported her stylish Cartier Tank. (©Getty)
Easily the first vintage timepiece any woman should get her hands on is the Cartier Tank. A timeless classic and easily recognized, the Tank’s minimalist, art deco style broadcasts both its vintage and elegance.
As the name suggests, the Tank’s design is inspired by the brutalist lines of World War I armored vehicles. The tank is characterized by its square dial, with its center serving as the turret. Hands reach outward like cannon barrels. Along the sides are the vertical sidebars called brancards. Finally, when opted with a steel bracelet, it emulates the tank’s treads.
Louis Cartier designed the Tank in 1917, and it first went on sale until 1919, several months after the end of the war.
Despite its military inspiration, the tank has become a favorite of the fashionable and influential. The Tank was most notably a favorite of Princess Diana. Across the Atlantic, it was also worn notably American royalty, former First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis. During the term of her first husband, President John F. Kennedy, she was gifted by her brother-in-law Prince Stanisław Albrecht Radziwiłł who married her sister, Caroline Bouvier to commemorate the Kennedy’s national health program of walking at least 50 miles per day. This was her favorite timepiece in her collection that accompanied her during her husband’s ill-faded assassination in 1963 and during her whirlwind romance with the Greek shipping tycoon Aristotle Onassis, her second husband.
Among the many variations that exist today, the classic Tank Louis Cartier will easily draw stares. However, the more daring should look into the Tank Américaine, notably worn by Halle Berry and Michelle Obama.
Rolex Oyster Datejust
Hollywood actress Jennifer Aniston wearing her Rolex Lady-Datejust. (©Jaztime)
No collection is complete without a Rolex. And among women’s watches, the Oyster Datejust is easily the most iconic.
Released in 1945, the first Datejust was designed specifically for men. It continued to be improved upon, eventually leading to the midsize 31mm Datejust. The Lady-Datejust, a smaller, more refined version of the original, was released in 1957. Soon after it was offered in even smaller 26 mm and 28 mm variations, to the very large 36 mm.
Naturally, the Datejust bears the Oyster’s most recognizable trademarks. Among them is the fluted bezel; once a sign of waterproofness. It now serves as an aesthetic element and a Rolex signature feature.
The Datejust is a favorite of such screen icons as Sophia Loren and Jennifer Aniston.
While modern Datejusts are offered in 28 and 31mm cases, collectors highly prize the 31 mm, widely regarded as the ‘Goldilocks range’ due to its perfect size for making a statement. And while there are many metal options, the most favored are the gold and stainless-steel models. These offer the wearer more style flexibility to match everything in their wardrobe and jewelry collections.
Patek Philippe Calatrava
An early advertisement for the Patek Philippe Calatrava from the 1940s. (© Patek Philippe Museum)
Though known more for their technological advances in creating complications like the first perpetual calendar and the first annual calendar, perhaps it’s in the absence of these where a Patek Philippe’s style truly shines.
With its pure lines, the Calatrava is recognized as the very essence of the round wristwatch with its timeless understated perfection.
The Calatrava takes its name from the ornate Calatrava cross, a symbol first used on the marching banners of the Calatrava knights who defended the Calatrava fortress against the Moors in 1158. Patek Philippe would eventually register the symbol as a trademark, appearing more regularly on the crowns and movements of Patek Philippe watches from the 1960s onwards.
The Calatrava was first launched in 1932, conceived as a model with broader appeal whilst still maintaining the brand’s exceptional reputation for quality and excellence in design and manufacturing. Its design exemplified the Bauhaus philosophy of form follows function, eschewing the more elaborate designs of the Art Deco era that preceded it, and serving as a refreshing counterpoint to its competitors.
Though there have been many Calatrava models since, the most desirable continue to be the models with small seconds shown on a sub-dial just above 6 o’clock. Unlike the others on this list, it’s best paired with an alligator leather strap, with its distinct square scales.
Not surprisingly, the Calatrava attracted Princess Diana’s attention as well. In January 1997, she famously walked across a minefield in Huambo in central Angola as part of her advocacy against landmines. On that trip, she wore a Patek Philippe Calatrava on a yellow gold bracelet.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
A French advertisement for the Reverso. (© Jaeger Le-Coultre)
Few vintage watches suit today’s fast-paced times quite like the Jager-LeCoultre Reverso. As the name suggests, this unique model features a case that can be reversed to reveal another face, allowing it to easily suit the changing moods of the day or night.
Despite being a seemingly contemporary idea, the Reverso traces its origins all the way back to 1931. Polo players at the time wanted a timepiece they could wear which was strong enough to withstand the numerous beatings given out by the gentlemen’s mallets.
Hearing of this plight Jacques-David LeCoultre tasked René-Alfred Chauvot to come up with a solution. Chauvot’s idea was for a watch whose case could reverse and flip 180 degrees to protect the fragile front glass of the timepiece. It was powered by JLC’s smallest mechanical movement.
Initially offered with a plain case back, it became a canvas for engraving monograms. The unique feature made it a perfect watch to give to a family member or a loved one, but also to mark special events in one’s life. Some personalized their timepieces to include small picture frames. And for the watch aficionados, what better model to show off the movement through the clear case back without having to take off the watch? For others, the appeal of having two watches in one is yet another possibility afforded by the Reverso.
Not surprisingly, the Duetto line is among the most popular choices for women. It is at once a high-precision instrument and a diverting toy. It’s delightfully thin, elegant, and can easily be made discrete. Yet with just a flip, it can quickly become the life of a party.
If there’s anything these timeless pieces affirm, it’s that influence has many forms. Expressing it can be as bold or as understated as desired.
Cartier Ballon Bleu
Prince William, the Duke of Cambridge, and Princess Catherine, the Duchess of Cambridge seen sporting a Cartier Ballon Bleu. ©Forbes.
Though relatively young among the above-mentioned, the Ballon Bleu is a veritable classic in the making. Named after the distinct blue bubble of its winding crown, the Ballon was designed to subvert conservative design tenets.
Its design is inspired by a pebble, rounded on top and the bottom, making it both elegant and comfortable to wear. Protecting the sapphire cabochon crown is an elegantly integrated crown guard which slopes over the sapphire cabochon crown. It comes with a choice of leather or polished bracelet.
What appears to be a plain white face from a distance is made from mother-of-pearl. The face is lined with roman numerals, concaving inward at the 3 o’clock position where the crown is. As the name suggests the crown features a sapphire. Models range in size from 29-42 mm.
Not surprisingly, the Ballon Bleu is favored by royals like Catherine, the Duchess of Cambridge, and her sister, Pippa Middleton. Hollywood actors, Sofia Vergara and Amber Heard are also known to wear it.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
Advertisements for the Royal Oak were made for American retailer Neiman Marcus in 1981 and the European market in 1982. (©Audemars Piguet)
While many of the other choices are formal, few can make a casual sports watch look sophisticated quite like Audemars Piguet. The iconic octagon was designed to be one of the earliest stainless steel sports wristwatches, hardly a luxury watch.
Nonetheless, being designed by Gérald Genta (of Patek Philippe Nautilus and IWC Ingenieur fame) has helped cement its status as an essential part of any collection.
It takes its brutalist styling inspiration from vintage diving helmets with hard edges and visible screws to imbue a sense of ruggedness as well as a nautical theme. Naturally, it was named after the most prized wood reserved for the finest ships of the British Royal Navy’s fleet. Adding more flavor is its petite tapisserie ‘Clous de Paris’ guilloché pattern on the face.
And nothing speaks of empowerment and confidence quite like bearing the big and bold dial of this watch on this one’s wrist. Among the most notable women to wear an AP Royal Oak are multiple Grand Slam tennis champion Serena Williams; fashion entrepreneur, Kylie Jenner; and actor, Olivia Palermo.
Silent Statements
These timepieces each make their statement, whether it’s an understated style that speaks volumes with their simplicity; big and bold to truly capture the crowd’s attention; or dynamic to easily suit any mood even when they are at opposite ends of the spectrum.
Ever fancied owning a vintage timepiece? Find out more at the Vintage Grail website. For more information, contact us at [email protected] or contact us at (+63) 917 159 1211
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