Watches & Wonders 2024: Recap
By: Xavi Panlilio | Posted: April 22, 2024
Watches and Wonders 2024 captivated watch enthusiasts from around the globe, drawing them to Geneva, Switzerland, for the premier annual fair in the world of horology. During the three-day event, 54 watchhouses unveiled their latest creations, highlighting their innovative designs and technical mastery. However, amidst the excitement of new releases, there were surprises as some brands announced unexpected discontinuations from their esteemed lineup, sparking speculation and discussion among enthusiasts and collectors alike. Join us as we recap the events’ releases and share our favourites and least favourites from the fair.
Rolex
Rolex unveiled their latest creations and surprising discontinuations during this year’s Watches and Wonders. There were many rumours regarding the discontinuation of certain watches, and this year, Rolex upped its game with daring new additions to its lineup.
Collectors were pleased with the new additions, such as the GMT-Master II with the black and grey bezel nicknamed “Bruce Wayne”, the Deepsea in yellow gold, which is Rolex’s first 44mm dive watch made in 18-carat gold, the 1908 in platinum, four iterations of the Daytona, four iterations of the Day-Date, and two of the Sky-Dweller.
But what surprised collectors was the discontinuation of the entire Yacht-Master II line, the discontinuation of the Datejust with the Palm and Fluted dial, and the discontinuation of the Daytona “Le Mans” 126529LN in white gold. This model only ran from 2023 to 2024 and was replaced with a new version in 18-carat yellow gold paired with the same dial and bezel from the previous model. The current line of new watches will take some getting used to, especially the Daytonas with the Mother of Pearl dials.
©Rolex
GMT-Master II Ref. 126710GRNR “Bruce Wayne”
Why We Like It?
This watch came as a surprise release at this year’s Watches & Wonders. There were a lot of rumours circulating that the “Pepsi” GMT-Master II would be discontinued to make way for new releases in 2024, and the “Bruce Wayne” came as an answered prayer for collectors. With the discontinuation of the all-black bezel from the 116710LN, there was a void with understated and sleek-looking bezels in the GMT-Master II line. With the new 126710GRNR, we get a new black and grey bezel which perfectly complement each other while still giving it an elegant look, given that the recent bezels on this model feature loud colours that won’t suit everyones taste.
©City A.M.
Daytona “Le Mans” in Yellow Gold
Why We Like It?
Collectors rejoiced when Rolex announced a watch that would pay homage to the 100th anniversary of the 24 Hours Of Le Mans race. The Daytona, an icon on its own right paired with a milestone for probably the most important racing event in horology, would be the centrepiece of any collection. What came as a surprise was Rolex discontinued the 126529LN, made in white gold, just after one year of production and revamped the next version into one made in yellow gold, which features the same dial and bezel with the red marked 100 from the previous model. Not much is known about this new model, but it will take the world by storm once more information is available.
Discontinued:
Rolex Daytona Le Mans 126529LN
Rolex Datejust 36 126200 & 126233 With A Palm Dial & Fluted Dial
The Entire Rolex Yacht-Master II Collection
Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe released 11 new iterations of their classics in this year’s Watches and Wonders. The highlights of the latest releases include 2 Aquanaut Travel Times, respectively, in white gold and rose gold, an Aquanaut Luce Haute Joaillerie in white gold paved with baguette-cut diamonds and blue sapphires, three Grand Complications, an Ellipse, a Twenty~4, and a Nautilus Flyback Chronograph and World Time in white gold with a denim-patterned calfskin strap.
However, while Patek Philippe’s new releases showcase innovation and creativity, some enthusiasts argue that they feel somewhat incomplete. The additions to collections like Aquanaut, Grand Complications, ellipse, and Twenty~4 resonate with the brand’s recent aesthetic direction. Yet, criticism arises with models like the World Time 5330G-001 and the Nautilus 5980/60G. While both models feature opaline blue-grey dials paired with white gold cases, the decision to include a denim-patterned calfskin strap has drawn mixed reviews. This choice dilutes the essence of these timepieces, especially the revered Nautilus, which traditionally embodies a more timeless and understated elegance.
©Patek Philippe
Aquanaut Travel Time 5296R-001
Why We Like It?
This update on the Aquanaut Travel Time Reference 5269R gives new light to line of sporty-chic watches from Patek Philippe. The smaller 38.8mm Travel Time is powered by a reliable quartz movement, which is the perfect type of movement for a dedicated travel piece. Its ease of use makes it a compelling offering for those aiming for the contemporary casual chic aesthetic.
©Patek Philippe
Golden Ellipse 5738/1R
Why We Like It?
This iteration of the Golden Ellipse welcomes its first rose gold chain-style bracelet, made up of 363 individual elements of more than 300 links that are mounted by hand. This watch pays homage to the watch trends of the 1970s with its use of fine materials and slim elegance, which is a trend in today’s watch landscape. It stays true to its purpose without the need to add more complications or gems in an attempt to make a classic watch classier.
Discontinued:
Ref. 5980/1R-001
Ref. 5712G-001
Ref. 5712R-001
Ref. 5164A-001
Ref. 5230P-001
Ref. 7234G-001
Ref. 7234R-001
Ref. 5396G-011
Vacheron Constantin
Renowned luxury watchmaker Vacheron Constantin has proudly presented its newest array of timepieces. This year’s showcase features an eclectic mix of extended collections and fresh reinterpretations, demonstrating Vacheron Constantin’s mastery of watchmaking and its signature elegance. Their latest releases feature the Overseas Collection in Sunburst Green, the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph, the Overseas Tourbillon Titanium, the Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde, the Yiqing Yin Egerie Concept watch, and the Grand Lady Kalla High Jewellery watch.
Vacheron Constantin showcased an impressive range of timepieces at this year’s Watches and Wonders, effortlessly blending high-class watchmaking with models that enhance their lineup and cater to every type of collector. Of all the brands that we have featured in this article, Vacheron definitely stole the show with all the watches they made part of the show. We are excited to see what the year has in store for us as they set the bar high for other watch brands.
©Vacheron Constantin
The Overseas Collection in Sunburst Green
Why We Like It?
Since its inception in 1996, the Overseas collection has consistently evolved. This year, Vacheron Constantin introduced four new models with a new dial colour. The green dial has a sunburst satin finish that perfectly compliments the pink gold construction of the watch. The new dial colour is offered in a 42.5mm Overseas Chronograph, 41mm Overseas Self-winding, a 41mm Overseas Dual Time, and a 35mm Overseas Self-winding with a diamond bezel. This new selection stays true to the spirit of travel and openness to the world, which has been the philosophy of François Constantin.
©Vacheron Constantin
Grand Lady Kalla High Jewellery watch
Why We Like It?
Vacheron opened the floodgates with the Grand Lady Kalla. Introduced back in the 80s, the latest iteration features 131 diamonds and a sautoir with 268 diamonds, all set by in-house gemologists. The highlight of this piece is its versatility.
Haute Joaillerie pieces from Vacheron are a sight for sore eyes. The Grand Lady Kalla reflects the Maison’s long and rich history of jewellery and pendant watches. This ode to the past is a refreshing take on the current landscape of horology. This piece really honours the name that inspired it: the Greek word kallista, meaning “the most beautiful”.
Cartier
Cartier continues its streak of producing excellent watches at all price points. The French-owned powerhouse continues to expand its reach into the world of luxury watches with updated iterations of classics made with modernity in mind. The releases include the Cartier Privé Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph, Santos de Cartier Dual Time, Santos-Dumont, Reflection de Cartier Watch, Animal Jewellery Watch, Tiger and Crocodile Jewellery Watch, and new additions to the lines of the Panthere, Baignoire, and Tank.
This refreshing collection is an all-in for Cartier. They found ways to re-invent some classic models that would appease all collectors, from vintage to contemporary collectors. They definitely read the market well, so they keep on producing watches we all fall in love with in an instant.
©Cartier
Cartier Santos-Dumont
Why We Like It?
The Cartier Santos-Dumont has recently grown in popularity, and we are here for it. Three new colours have been added: blue peacock with rose gold, taupe grey with yellow gold, and olive green with platinum, which is limited to 200 pieces. The colours are also seen beyond the dial and make their way onto the case and the frame surrounding the dial, making this an elevated take on this classic. The bold move from Cartier is something fresh and will make this more collectable as time passes. The green is limited to 200 pieces and will be especially coveted.
©Cartier
Cartier Tank
Why We Like It?
The tiny watch wave is here and comes as a breath of fresh air. Social media played a massive role, with celebrities being spotted wearing smaller or even ladies’ watches. This caused a spread to a broader audience to be more comfortable sporting watches in smaller sizes where collectors don’t have to be bound by a strict gender classification for their preference in watches.
This watch is the “Tiny Tank” for anyone, and not a ladies watch. Cartier is making watches for everyone to enjoy, and this inclusion for all watch collectors is truly commendable.
Honorable Mentions
With all the great watches that were seen in this year’s Watches & Wonders, we were able to get insight towards the direction of all the 54 brands that participated in the event. As much as we would love to talk about all the participants and their wares, it would be close to impossible to cover all of them in one article. So here are our honorable mentions from some of the participants that we weren’t able to fully cover.
©A. Lange & Söhne
A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon
Why We Like It?
The Luxury watch house A. Lange & Söhne pretty much stole the show with a jaw-dropping Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon in 18-carat honey gold. The watch’s impressive triple-complication features a luminous dial that will be the centre of attention even in the dark. The case has both brushed and polished surfaces with a diameter of 41.5mm and a thickness of 14.6mm, making it a relatively hefty piece, which is acceptable due to the watch’s complications. Limited to 50 pieces, the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon is priced at $620,000, making this piece fit for a king, which is fitting for the brand as they catered to emperors and kings in the past.
©Tudor
Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT
Why We Like It?
Let’s face facts: writing about watches that the general public would be lucky to see in a lifetime is fun, but we consider this an underrated watch that we would like to call “the little watch that could”. Tudor, the sister company of Hans Wilsdorfs Rolex, unveils their latest addition to the Black Bay line. It stands out with its Master Chronometer certification and brings us back with its reminiscent design of the golden age of travel. The 39mm case is the same size as the Dive watches the brand released in 1958 and features the iconic “Coke” bezel that Rolex failed to give its patrons. We like this watch because we see its practicality as a daily wear that doesn’t compromise the history and functionality of Tudor. This watch is a step for Tudor to step out of the shadow of its bigger sister, Rolex.
©Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual
Why We Like It?
Did we really expect less from a brand that has been around since 1833, with its hundreds of inventions and patents, and one of the most complicated wristwatches ever made? They don’t call JLC the watchmaker’s watchmaker for nothing.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual was the release that stood out to us the most, as it serves as the flagship model for the entire Duometre lineup. The 44mm pink gold case also houses a perpetual calendar and the new calibre 388 movement, making this the first time JLC released a triple-axis tourbillon with a spherical hairspring.
The dial is different yet perfectly executed. The new arrangement turns the dial layout by 90 degrees and includes a grand date display, perfectly encapsulating the watch’s aesthetic, making it the perfect modern interpretation of 19th-century pocket watches. The Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual is limited to 20 pieces, so let’s all hope we get to see one, let alone lay our hands on one in our lifetime.
The novelties featured in this year’s Watches & Wonders will undoubtedly be the centre of any conversation between watch collectors. It will definitely take a little bit more time for all of us to take it all in and absorb what we’ve seen so far, but for now, let’s all agree to disagree with our likes and dislikes from the event as we’re each entitled to our own opinions.
Disclaimer: The views and opinions contained in this article belong solely to the individual author and do not reflect the views and opinions of the company. We are not affiliated, associated, authorized, endorsed by, or in any way officially connected with any of the brands mentioned, or any of its subsidiaries or its affiliates.
