Jacob & Co. Then vs Now
By: Hung Cheuk Ying | Posted: April 08, 2024
Jacob Arabo’s journey from Uzbekistan to luxury watch and jewellery magnate epitomises ambition and skill. Relocating to New York at 14 and leaving high school early, Arabo quickly found his calling in jewellery-making, excelling in specialised programs. By 17, he was producing original designs, laying the groundwork for Jacob & Co at 21, catapulted into fame partly by celebrity endorsements like the Notorious B.I.G.
Arabo refined his sisters’ jewellery early on, hinting at his future design ingenuity. This innovation knack and entrepreneurial drive transitioned his hobby into a thriving business. Arabo’s interest in watchmaking, sparked by a cherished childhood gift, faced initial resistance in the Swiss watch market. Yet, his perseverance led to the breakthrough Five Timezone watch, blending his horological passion with his business acumen. Arabo’s rise from immigrant teenager to luxury design icon underscores his journey’s foundation in persistence and innovation.
In 2002, Jacob Arabo launched the Five Time Zone watch collection, quickly becoming popular among celebrities like Naomi Campbell, Bono, and Derek Jeter. The watches were known for their bold colours and unique feature of an interchangeable bezel, allowing for customisation. Arabo’s knack for personalisation was evident as he created special versions for high-profile clients and charitable events, significantly boosting his brand’s profile in the watchmaking industry.
In 2007, Jacob & Co. marked a pivotal year under Jacob Arabo’s leadership by founding Jacob & Co. SA in Geneva, thrusting further into Swiss watchmaking. The brand introduced the Quenttin, the first watch featuring a vertical one-minute tourbillon and a record 31-day power reserve, named after a whimsical interaction and popularised by Quentin Tarantino in Vogue. Following this, Jacob & Co. released groundbreaking Tourbillons like the Rainbow, Crystal, and, notably, the Napoleon Quadra Tourbillon. This mechanically complex piece, limited to 18 per series and crafted in various precious materials, showcases four tourbillons for different time zones on its dial, cementing the brand’s status as an innovator in combining artistic craftsmanship with sophisticated horology.
In 2011 and 2012, Jacob & Co. boosted its image by introducing brand ambassadors, first selecting dynamic martial artist Donnie Yen and then American actress and supermodel Milla Jovovich at Baselworld 2012, enhancing its prestige without new timepiece releases.
Jacob & Co. Epic SF24 Tourbillon Baguette
In 2013, Jacob & Co. introduced groundbreaking collections that affirmed their innovative edge in luxury watches. The Epic SF24 was a highlight, featuring a unique Split-Flap world time display akin to vintage airport boards and available in rose gold or titanium with tourbillon options. The Brilliant Collection, with its gem-set cases and intricate skeletonised movements, and the Caligula Collection, which melded erotic artistry with classical design, underscored the brand’s dedication to blending traditional craftsmanship with bold creativity. These launches emphasised Jacob & Co.’s pursuit of excellence and innovation in watchmaking.
In 2014, Jacob & Co. expanded its prominence by enlisting football icon Cristiano Ronaldo as a brand ambassador and unveiling the Astronomia Tourbillon at Baselworld, a celestial-themed marvel with a four-arm movement, showcasing a rotating globe, a diamond-cut moon, a triple-axis tourbillon, and a correctly oriented time display. The Astronomia set a new standard for their collection. They also launched the Ghost, a five-time zone digital watch with GPS synchronisation for 20 time zones. It is designed for simplicity and advanced functionality, highlighting the brand’s commitment to innovative and sophisticated timepieces.
In 2015, Jacob & Co. launched the Epic X collection with its novel, spider-leg-like angled lugs connecting the strap to the watch. It added a dramatic flair and later introduced a new skeleton movement to highlight the X-shaped lugs and vertical aesthetics. That year also saw the debut of the Billionaire watch collection, the pinnacle of luxury at $18 million, with models like the Billionaire ASHOKA, boasting over 189 carats of diamonds, setting a new standard for opulence. Among various models, the Billionaire Double Tourbillon stood out with its diamond-set design, detachable bracelet, and double-flying tourbillon movement, showcasing Jacob & Co.’s mastery in combining exquisite craftsmanship with unparalleled luxury and precision.
In 2016, Jacob & Co. unveiled the Astronomia Sky, further pushing the bounds of horology with a blend of advanced mechanics and celestial elements, introducing celestial complications and featuring a sidereal display and a diamond Moon, establishing it as a horological marvel. The brand introduced the Twin Turbo Collection the same year, marking an industry first by combining twin triple-axis tourbillons with a minute repeater. This collection highlighted the brand’s expertise in melding intricate mechanics with dynamic design, showcasing fast-moving tourbillons and a unique decimal minute repeater in an eye-catching case, reaffirming Jacob & Co.’s dedication to innovative and exceptional watchmaking.
In 2017, Jacob & Co. enhanced its Astronomia collection with the Astronomia Solar Planets Jewelry, featuring the solar system’s planets represented as meticulously crafted Jacob Cut gemstones. This model, driven by the compact Exclusive JCAM19 calibre, offered a fresh take on the collection with its smaller case size and innovative design, blending high-end watchmaking with a celestial theme.
In 2018, Jacob & Co. celebrated a year of notable achievements, launching the Twin Turbo Furious, an advanced timepiece featuring a blend of complex functionalities, and announcing a partnership with Lionel Messi. This collaboration birthed limited-edition Epic X Chrono watches, echoing Messi’s career with design cues like the Argentine flag’s colours and his signature. The Twin Turbo Furious exemplified the brand’s dedication to intricate designs, while the Messi partnership and a special auction piece for ONLY WATCH 2019 highlighted Jacob & Co.’s standing in luxury watchmaking, merging technical expertise with the celebration of extraordinary talent.
In 2019, Jacob & Co. forged significant partnerships, including one with Bugatti, resulting in customised Epic X Chrono and Twin Turbo Furious watches, embodying both brands’ luxury and engineering prowess. Another collaboration with Paramount Pictures produced the Godfather Musical watch, paying homage to the iconic film with a musical complication playing The Godfather’s theme, marrying watchmaking with cinematic heritage.
The year also saw the release of the Astronomia Casino, which incorporates a functional roulette wheel in its design for a personalised touch, and the Mystery Tourbillon, which blends fine watchmaking with exquisite jewellery. It features dual triple-axis tourbillons and an innovative time display. These pieces underscore Jacob & Co.’s commitment to uniting horological art with unique thematic expressions, crafting distinct, luxurious timepieces.
In 2020, through dynamic collaborations, Jacob & Co. continued to push creative boundaries despite the pandemic. They partnered with Universal for the Opera Scarface Musical watch, combining elements from “Scarface” with advanced watchmaking in a limited edition that includes a music box and a miniature Tony Montana tribute. Collaborations with the skateboarding brand Supreme reinterpreted the Five Time Zone watch with a bold ethos. At the same time, a partnership with UFC Champion Khabib Nurmagomedov inspired a series of Epic X Chrono watches reflecting Khabib’s spirit.
Jacob & Co. Bugatti Chiron Sapphire Crystal
Jacob & Co. also launched the Astronomia Explorer with Johan Ernst Nilson, integrating Earth’s natural wonders to highlight environmental awareness in luxury design. The year was further marked by an advanced partnership with Bugatti, introducing the Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon, a watch mirroring the Chiron hypercar’s essence with a miniature W16 engine animation, showcasing the brand’s dedication to innovative watchmaking and craftsmanship.
In 2021, Jacob & Co. led the luxury watch industry into the digital age by launching an NFT of the SF24 Tourbillon and embracing cryptocurrency payments. They unveiled the Astronomia Maestro Worldtime, combining a minute repeater carillon with Worldtime functionality, featuring a rotating astronaut against a Milky Way motif, showcasing their signature celestial artistry.
The brand also expanded the Twin Turbo Furious line with models featuring transparent sapphire cases. A collaboration with Universal Pictures produced the Fast & Furious Twin Turbo watch, incorporating elements from the film series. Another partnership, this time with Warner Bros. and DC, resulted in the Gotham City collection, inspired by Batman and mirroring the dark ambiance of Gotham, tying back to the brand’s New York City heritage. These pieces, embedding Batman’s emblem within their luxurious design, demonstrate Jacob & Co.’s ability to fuse pop culture with high-end watchmaking, creating distinctive, narrative-driven luxury timepieces.
In 2022, Jacob & Co. unveiled the Jean Bugatti timepiece, marking a refined phase in their partnership with Bugatti. This limited-edition watch, restricted to 57 pieces, blends classic elegance with innovative watchmaking, featuring double retrograde, digital chronograph, and twin tourbillon within a sophisticated design. It symbolises the synergy between Jacob & Co.’s horological craftsmanship and Bugatti’s legendary automotive heritage.
In 2023, Jacob & Co. expanded their collection with two distinguished timepieces, highlighting their commitment to luxury and groundbreaking design. The Billionaire Timeless Treasure, a new addition to the Billionaire collection, merges high jewellery with horology, adorned with yellow diamonds and tsavorites, showcasing unparalleled luxury and precision craftsmanship. This piece, crafted after an extensive global hunt for the finest gems, is a testament to opulence, its skeleton tourbillon movement elegantly framed by precious stones.
Alongside, they launched The World Is Yours Dual Timezone watch, which is deeply personal to Jacob Arabo and inspired by a treasured gift from his father. This watch pays tribute to the original through a dual timezone feature and a novel design showcasing the Western hemisphere, embodying exceptional detail and craftsmanship. It melds sentimental value with watchmaking prowess, introducing a new globe-symbolising case and an exclusive movement, making it a unique homage to legacy and individual journey.
Reflecting on Jacob & Co.’s evolution from modest beginnings to becoming a behemoth in luxury watchmaking, the anticipation for what 2024 holds is palpable. With a history rich in innovation, creativity, and relentless pursuit of excellence, Jacob & Co. has continually redefined horological boundaries, eagerly leading us to await their next groundbreaking unveiling the opening of their new boutique in Hong Kong’s prestigious The Peninsula Hotel expands their footprint and underscores their growing global influence, particularly in the vital Asian luxury market. This strategic move highlights the brand’s enduring appeal and significant role in shaping the luxury landscape.
Jacob & Co. stands on the brink of dominating the blend of fine jewellery and high-end timepieces, synonymous with luxury, innovation, and exquisite craftsmanship, especially as they pave the way with creations like the Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon series; they set the standard for opulence and precision.
Predicting the future is always fraught with uncertainty. Still, Jacob & Co.’s trajectory suggests that it will maintain its stature and redefine the nexus of luxury and innovation in the years to come. As we look to the horizon, Jacob & Co. stands as a beacon of ingenuity and luxury, promising to bring forth new marvels that will, undoubtedly, continue to enchant and inspire the world of horology.
Disclaimer: The views and opinions contained in this article belong solely to the individual author and do not reflect the views and opinions of the company. We are not affiliated, associated, authorized, endorsed by, or in any way officially connected with any of the brands mentioned, or any of its subsidiaries or its affiliates.
