Vintage Grail’s Watches and Wonders 2023 Predictions
By: Preston Turk | Posted: March 26, 2023
The Watches and Wonders 2023 show is around the corner, and that means many new watches from major brands are soon to be announced during the seven-day exhibition. This is the chance for manufactures to show what they’ve been working on for the past year or more, and for collectors to get an idea of new or continued trends we will see for the next year.
In advance of the show, we have looked at the current state of the market and are making some predictions about new releases we may see from the most talked about brands at the show, Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin. Let’s get it started below!
Rolex
Daytona Series:
With 2023 being the 60th anniversary of the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona series, collectors are expecting something to mark the occasion. While we have seen many compelling Daytona models in recent years such as the meteorite dial series and green dial reference 116508 “John Mayer” series, we predict Rolex may celebrate this anniversary with a return of stone dials as seen in the “Grossular Garnet” reference 16519 or Chrysoprase, Turquoise and Sodalite dials seen in the reference 116519 series. These could feature a platinum case, similar to the reference 116506 “Platona.”
(© Phillips)
Submariner Series
2023 is not only the anniversary of the Daytona, but also the Submariner series, which is ringing in its 70th Anniversary. While some collectors are anticipating an “ice blue” platinum Submariner similar to the reference 116506 “Platona,” a prediction we would like to see is for the Submariner series to be released in titanium and with a return of lug chamfering, similar to the DeepSea Challenge 126067. It would be great to see this in a practical size, such as 40 or 41mm, with a Glidelock-enabled buckle with diver’s extension.
While it’s possible Rolex will celebrate both of the anniversary of the Daytona and Submariner, we expect the brand will choose one of them to celebrate and potentially push the other by 5 years.
Milgauss Series:
The Rolex Milgauss has been an unusual reference for the brand since its launch in 1956. While it has never really “fit in,” we have appreciated the presence of the last remaining Milgauss 116400 references: the “GV” with its unusual green crystal, and the “Z-Blue” with electric-blue dial, both with an unusual case shape making space for the faraday cage inside, and their iconic “lightning bolt” seconds hand.
That said, this series no longer has much of a practical purpose as an anti-magnetic tool watch with the advent of Rolex’s paramagnetic “Parachrom Bleu” hairspring. In addition, it is the last watch in the Rolex catalog to feature a “31XX” series caliber, making it a prime target for an update. Whether this update is the discontinuation of the series as a whole, or something more subtle like the recent Air-King update in 2022, remains to be seen at the show.
Patek Philippe
Nautilus Series:
2022 saw the most significant shift of the Nautilus series in recent memory, with the discontinuation of the Nautilus 5711/1A and its precious metal replacement, the white gold Nautilus 5811/1G.
We expect this trend will continue and the Nautilus series will continue to moving into precious metal territory, while the Aquanaut would be the collection to continue offering steel variants.
This shift could have the effect of references like the 5712/1A and 5276/1A being discontinued in favor of full white gold and bracelet releases.
(© Patek Philippe)
Complications Series:
In 2022, Patek Philippe released an oddball of a reference, the Split Seconds Monopusher Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Reference 5373P-001.
This lefthanded “destro” reference was a very unusual release for the brand, and utilized the CHR 27-525 PS Q movement which is no longer seen in any current production references following the discontinuation of the 5372P series.
We predict the manufacture will not let this incredible movement remain in only one reference, and will roll it out in new models with new colors, possibly a green dial, but still cased in platinum consistent with every other reference with this movement since 2014.
Calatrava Series:
The 2021 release of the Patek Philippe 6119 in rose and white gold brought a fresh look to the hand winding variant of the brand’s dressiest series with new dial and a hobnail bezel.
Aside from the reference 6119 series, the automatic Calatrava series including the 5227 in white, rose and yellow gold has not been updated in a decade, since 2013. While these are classic references with conservative looks by design, we expect Patek Philippe will update the design of this reference to be more in tune their current house style.
Vacheron Constantin
222 Series:
Vacheron Constantin surprised collectors with the 2022 reissue of the “222” in the Historiques series. This reissue marked the 50th anniversary of the original 1972 edition, and was crafted in yellow gold and while it is not a limited edition, it has proven difficult for collectors to get their hands on.
Yellow gold was one of the original variants of the 222, along with stainless steel, white gold, and two tone white/yellow gold.
We predict in 2023 that Vacheron Constantin will expand the 222 series and that they will remain true to the concept of a reissue and not stay from original variants. Instead, we predict that in lockstep with competitor Patek Philippe, the manufacture will keep the collection in precious metal by releasing a white gold edition only.
FiftySix Series:
Launched in 2018 and expanded through 2020, the FiftySix series is a dressy casual series from Vacheron Constantin that is also considered the brand’s entry level or value offering. We anticipate the brand will expand this series and add additional colors to keep the collection on trend, possibly with green or patterned dials, and possibly new complications such as a chronograph model which would make for a modern and sporty addition to the series.
Overseas Series:
The 2021 Vacheron Constantin Overseas Everest Editions were a hit in limited edition, offering collectors something very unusual from the Overseas collection. While last year saw expansion of colorways and skeletonization in the Overseas series, we think this year we could see some more dramatic limited editions similar to the Everest series. This could be something from the archives such something visually similar to the “US Limited Edition” from 2007 or the “Overseas Perpetual Calendar Chronograph ‘Boutique Edition’ from 2011.
Independents of Note:
Although Watches and Wonders is most famous for being a platform of new releases from the largest brands, there are a number of smaller brands worth paying attention to. One of these such brands, Pequignet, designs and assembles their timepieces just across the border from the show in France.
(© Pequignet)
In recent years we have seen new designs from the brand based on the Pequignet Calibre Royal and the Calibre Initial series of movements. For this year’s show, we may see exciting new designs featuring these movements and an expansion of the brand’s recently launched Royale Saphir series, which feature sapphire dials.
Looking Forward:
We look forward to seeing if our predictions are correct as the new launches from Watches & Wonders 2023 start rolling in from March 27th! Be sure to follow our social media account on Instagram and join our newsletter for updates on the show and our commentary on these new releases from top brands.
