Valentine’s Day Gift Guide: High Complications Ladies Watches
By: Preston Turk | Posted: February 08, 2023
Historically, ladies watches were designed to be small in profile, more closely resembling bracelets than the larger profile watches offered in men’s watch catalogs.
Despite their smaller size, many of these watches were technically more impressive than the men’s watch counterparts due to the increased difficulty in producing parts for the smaller movements while remaining accurate enough to be worthy of the brand’s name.
Trends change over time and in recent years many women have begun to favor larger watches, even including larger men’s sports watch series such as the Panerai Luminor and IWC’s Big Pilot.
Luxury brands have noticed this trend and have started to develop watches for a growing segment of female customers who are horologically well-informed and have a demand for timepieces that offer more than just a piece of jewelry but instead have compelling designs, case materials and complications.
With the modern trend towards larger watches, a female collector now has more choices available of high horology watches from both the ladies and men’s catalogs. For Vintage Grail’s latest gift guide, we want to highlight a curated selection of watches with compelling designs and interesting complications for a modern female collector to consider.
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Moon Phases Ref. 4948G-010
With the Patek Philippe 4948G-010, the brand has launched a watch that combines jewellery and high complications. The Annual Calendar Moon Phases features a mother of pearl dial with gold indices, a white gold case, and 347 diamonds around the mid-case, bezel and lugs.
While it has merit as jewellery, this watch has serious watchmaking included with an annual calendar, moon phase indication and date features powered by the in-house produced Patek Philippe Caliber 324 S QA LU movement. The brand has made sure collectors can fully appreciate this Patek Philippe Seal certified movement by including a sapphire case-back on the reverse, through which the movement and its yellow-gold automatic rotor can be seen.
Richard Mille RM07-01 Gem Set Ceramic and Carbon TPT® Case
This Richard Mille RM07-01 combines a sophisticated, luxurious outlook and high-end watchmaking components, making this ladies watch a compelling accessory for daily or special occasion wear.
The case on this reference is made up of a white biocompatible ceramic bezel with remarkable corrosion resistance, hardness providing scratch resistance and toughness superior to that of sapphire, while the mid-case is lightweight Carbon TPT®. The RM07-01 is available in multiple colourways, and this specific white ceramic RM07-01 features an eye-catching gem-set case and dial with jasper centrepiece and a skeletonized chapter ring.
This watch surely wears taller than the undermentioned Audemars Piguet, however when viewed from directly above it occupies less wrist space and at the same time, the skeletonization offers intrigue from a watchmaking perspective.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Ref. 26586IP.OO.1240IP.01
This reference is celebrated as a winner of the Aiguille D’Or at The 2019 GPHG Awards in November 2019 for the outstanding thinness of its case while containing perpetual calendar and moon phase complications.
The 26586IP has an overall thickness measuring only 6.3mm, of which 2.89mm is attributable to the movement. The case and bracelet are crafted out of titanium making it a light and comfortable watch to wear; at the same time it includes precious metal in the signature octagonal bezel, crafted from 950 platinum.
While not in the ladies watch catalogue, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 26586IP can be considered a compelling case for a female collector. The lightweight case makes it a comfortable piece with an unmistakable design for the female collector who wants to daily wear award-winning high horology from Audemars Piguet.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton Ref. 4300V/120R-B547
While visually very different from the Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar featured above, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar 4300V is also considered an ultra-thin watch at only 8.1mm in height.
Like the Audemars Piguet, this reference features a perpetual calendar and a moon phase complication, however it does so in a bright rose gold case with all the intricate, hand finished mechanisms that drive the watch visible from the front and back of the case via skeletonization.
Vacheron Constantin has decided to include three strap options with this Overseas, including the original rose gold bracelet, a leather strap and a sporty blue rubber strap.
This is a piece, also from the men’s catalog, that can be a compelling choice for a female collector who is comfortable with a larger watch, is serious about high-end watchmaking and wants a statement about it that will be instantly recognizable from across the room.
Vacheron Constantin Égérie Moon Phase Ref. 8005F/000R-B498
The Égérie Moon Phase is one of the latest in the Égérie collection from Vacheron Constantin, the oldest continuously operating brand in Switzerland. The watch features an engine turned guilloche dial, which is the centrepiece for this reference. Placed off centre on this dial at 1:30 o’clock, the Égérie features a moon phase complication which matches the dial in being surrounded by diamonds.
The Égérie Moon Phase features a modern, interchangeable strap system and includes two straps as part of the set, making it a versatile piece for a collector who values flexibility in the outlook of their timepiece.
Rolex Sky-Dweller Ref. 326935
On its surface, the Sky-Dweller looks like a simple three-hand or GMT watch, however the most informed collectors are aware that the Rolex Calibre 9001 movement is one of the most complicated movements the brand has ever produced, making it a significant part of Rolex history.
The complications on the Sky-Dweller include an annual calendar, with the month indicated by apertures around the chapter ring, and GMT function movable via the fluted bezel in a system Rolex calls “Ring Command.”
Like several watches above, the Rolex Sky-Dweller 326935 is not explicitly from the women’s catalog however its large, 42mm presence on the wrist is a contender for female collectors who frequently reach across the aisle into the men’s watch catalog with watches from Panerai or IWC, and are looking for a precious metal statement piece on the wrist.
Are you interested in any of the above pieces, or perhaps you have something different in mind?
Vintage Grail has an extensive global sourcing network; if we don’t already have what you are looking for, we can find it for you quickly!
Visit www.vintagegrail.com, contact us at [email protected] or ring our mobile at (+63) 917 159 1211 to get started.
