Deep Dive: The Nautilus Chronograph Series 5980 & 5990
By: Preston Turk | Posted: May 26, 2023
The Patek Philippe Chronograph reference 5980/1R and Travel Time Chronograph reference 5990/1R are among the most astonishing models in the brand’s legendary Nautilus series.
These are watches that owners tend to hold onto for their distinctive look, functionality, and value retention. While visually similar, there are notable differences in their complications and, consequently, their design.
The Nautilus Chronograph reference 5980/1R is a purpose-driven watch with a deep black, distinctive dial design that makes it clear the chronograph is the centerpiece of the watch. The elapsed time indicator is in the form of a subdial at 6 o’clock, with two tracks displaying minutes and hours, up to 12 hours.
In contrast, the 5990/1R is objectively a more complicated watch, adding travel time functionality to the chronograph complication, with a striking sunburst blue dial that reflects that.
At 3 and 9 o’clock, two apertures display day and night indications for both local and home times which are aligned to a local time hour hand, controlled by two pushers on the left side of the case, and a second, skeletonized hour hand which indicates the home time.
Under the dial, these slight differences continue as the reference 5990/1R is powered by the Patek Philippe CH 28-520 C FUS movement, based on the same movement found in the 5980/1R.
To enable the tracking of a second-time zone, the display day and night both local and abroad, and relocate the date, an additional 62 parts have been added. Despite these additional complications, however, the two references are nearly the same size and both make for substantial pieces on the wrist compared to most of the Nautilus line up.
Conclusion:
Both references showcase Patek Philippe’s renowned quality construction. Choosing between them ultimately depends on personal preference and prioritized features.
The 5990/1R suits frequent travelers needing multiple time zone tracking, while the 5980/1R is ideal for chronograph enthusiasts wanting to track longer events.
Regardless of choice, these Nautilus references from Patek Philippe are luxury sports watches suitable for everyday wear, guaranteeing timeless value in any watch collection.
Whether you are looking for a Patek Philippe Chronograph or Travel Time Chronograph, in steel or precious metal, Vintage Grail is here to help you find your dream watch. Contact us today to book a viewing in our Manila or Hong Kong locations. We can’t wait to help you find your next Grail!
