Watches and Wonders 2023 Recap
By: Preston Turk | Posted: May 03, 2023
This year’s Watches and Wonders 2023 show did not disappoint with participating brands launching both evolutionary and ground breaking references that caught the attention of collectors worldwide. Below we will go into Vintage Grail’s top picks from this year’s show, along with our favorite watches that have now been discontinued.
Rolex
New Releases:
Daytona Ref. 126500LN in Stainless Steel
Why we like it: On the ceramic bezel, Rolex has added a steel ring on the outside, giving it a similar look of bakelite bezels on vintage Daytonas such as the reference 6263. In addition, the series gained a new dial design with thinner subdials, which are a reference to the earlier “Zenith” Daytona series.
Under the dial, the watch has a new Caliber 4143 movement, which is shown off only on the display back of the platinum Daytona reference 126506. These updates to the Rolex Daytona are subtle, but give this legendary model a refresh while paying respect to the historical references on which its fame was built.
Yacht-Master 42 Ref. 226627 in Titanium
Why we like it: With a brushed titanium case, matte dial and “maxi” indices, this update to the Yachtmaster was much needed and gives the watch a fresh new look. This reference is already being referred to as a “gentleman’s submariner” for its tool watch functionality, but more subdued outlook.
Oyster Perpetual Ref. 124300 in Stainless Steel “Celebration”
Why we like it: This whimsical Oyster Perpetual incorporates all the colors from the Oyster Perpetual line into one dial. This was an unexpected release from the brand, but one that captures all the fun of the Oyster Perpetual colors into one daily-wearable piece.
GMT-Master II Ref. 126718GRNR in Yellow Gold
Why we like it: This full yellow gold update to the GMT-Master II gives collectors a new option for a precious metal pilot’s watch with its bright jubilee bracelet and new bi-color bezel in black and grey.
Our least Favorite:
Day-Date 36 “Puzzle Dial” Series:
Why we are not a fan: This was definitely the most unexpected release of the show, not only due to the unique look of the champlevé enamel dial but also the date-wheel featuring emojis instead of dates, and the day-wheel featuring uplifting words instead of days. That said, while we appreciate the complex work that went into the enamel dial, the day and date-wheels do not match the design language typically associated with Rolex, and with the brand’s tight lipped communication around R&D, one can only guess as to how it came to be produced. This series will likely be produced in extremely limited quantities, and sold to happy customers, yet it remains a puzzling addition to the brand’s catalog in 2023.
GMT-Master II Ref. 126713GRNR in Oystersteel and Yellow Gold
Why we are not a fan: While two-tone watches are ubiquitous and there are fans of this colorway, the new GMT-Master II Ref. 126713GRNR on jubilee bracelet is visually the weakest of the 2023 Rolex launches. In its favor are the new grey-black bezel and latest Caliber 3285 movement, but unfortunately it lacks both the cohesive design language of a full steel model, and the visual punch of a full gold reference.
Discontinued:
Daytona ‘John Mayer’ Ref. 116508
Why we are sad to see it go: This striking reference from Rolex was iconic for a number of reasons, including being featured in John Mayer’s watch collection which earned it the nickname, but also because of its green dial and yellow gold case matching the Rolex brand colors. While production numbers are unknown, this is a rare watch sure to become even harder to find following the discontinuation.
All meteorite dial Daytonas including Ref. 116515LN
Why we are sad to see it go: Meteorite dials from Rolex have always been special pieces, as they are produced from the same Gibeon meteorite which is no longer available to procure and due to the nature of the material, each piece has a unique pattern. Due to the material’s rarity, it was unusual to have six meteorite Daytona variants available from Rolex at the same time. Today, only the Day-Date and GMT-Master II remain available in this rare dial specification.
Milgauss Series Ref. 116400GV
Why we are sad to see it go: The Milgauss series has always been an unusual reference for Rolex, with the early ones visually appearing similar to the Submariner, numerous dial and case design language changes, and finally since 2007 maintaining the appearance of an Oyster Perpetual but with a thicker case, and signature lightning bolt second hand. Although the discontinuation was predictable as the last model in the line-up with a 3135 movement and little technical justification to exist due to advances in anti-magnetism, it was a fun watch with a unique history and as such, we will miss its presence in the catalog.
Patek Philippe
New Releases:
Flyback Chronograph, Annual Calendar Ref. 5905R-010 in Rose Gold
Why we like it: This new reference replaces the 5905R-001, and brings a vibrant blue dial to the Flyback Chronograph, Annual Calendar series. The bright blue dial and rose gold case color, paired with the blue alligator strap, make for a compelling contrast.
Minute Repeater, World Time Ref. 5531G-001 in White Gold
Why we like it: Another replacement for 2023 is this new Minute Repeater, World Time in white gold that replaces the reference 5531-012 in rose gold. This reference features a new motif in Grand Feu cloisonné enamel of a steamboat crossing Lake Geneva, that contrasts nicely with the white gold case.
24-Hour Display, Travel Time Ref. 5224R in Rose Gold
Why we like it: Similar to the new 5905R-010, this travel time from Patek Philippe brings a new, bright blue dial to the 2023 collection in a rose gold case. Beyond the engaging color on this new variant, the in-house Caliber 31‑260 PS FUS 24H movement powers a 24 hour display of time, with all hours of the day being marked by raised, lume-filled indices, and a second time zone indication. While this is not a ground breaking complication, it is unusual to see especially on dressier watches, and makes for a unique time display.
Aquanaut Chronograph Ref. 5968R-001 in Rose Gold
Why we like it: This launch was somewhat predictable considering the success of the similar 5164R-001 Travel Time, also in brown with a rose gold case. That said, this is still an appreciated addition to the 2023 line up and expansion to the 5968 series of Aquanaut Chronographs.
Calatrava Ref. 6007G-011 in White Gold
Why we like it: This was an unexpected launch, being a sporty casual new reference for the Calatrava line. That said, this design is not entirely novel, being a spiritual continuation of the 6007A launched in 2020, and bearing the “carbon” motif on the dial which we are seeing on more models from the brand. This is a time-only reference that manages to be playful, sporty, and luxurious at the same time.
Our least Favorite:
Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar Ref. 5261R in Rose Gold
Why we are not a fan: This new Aquanaut Luce from Patek Philippe was unexpected, and on paper a precious metal Aquanaut with an annual calendar should be compelling. However in the actual execution, the color and dial layout, especially the moon phase aperture, comes across as unbalanced and out of line with the dial layouts typically seen from Patek Philippe. We expect this reference will be produced this year, but might see a quiet exit from the catalog at next year’s Watches & Wonders show.
Discontinued:
Flyback Chronograph, Annual Calendar Ref. 5905R-001 in Rose Gold
Why we are sad to see it go: While its replacement with sunburst-blue dial joins the remaining olive green steel variant in the catalog, this gradient brown dial 5905R-001 and its matching alligator strap pairing offered compelling complications in a more lowkey appearance. We hope next year to see another similar, more conservative variant join the Flyback Chronograph, Annual Calendar line-up.
Minute Repeater, World Time Ref. 5531-012 in Rose Gold
Why we are sad to see it go: In production between 2018-2023, this rose gold variant with brown dial accents and brown alligator strap offered an attractive, dressier option for this high end complication. Similar to the 5905 series color updates, we would have liked to see this more formal option remain in the catalog for a few more years.
Vacheron Constantin
New Releases:
Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date ref. 4000V/210A-B911
Why we like it: This Moon Phase Retrograde Date is visually an extension of the popular Overseas with blue dial reference 4500V, and the first introduction of the brand’s Caliber 2460 R31L retrograde movement in the Overseas collection. The 4000V/210A-B911 is a great choice for someone who loves the Overseas collection and is looking for one with an uncommon complication displayed on an attractive dial color.
Traditionnelle Tourbillon Ref. 6000T/000P-H025 41 MM in Platinum
Why we like it: This new tourbillon reference from Vacheron Constantin is conservative in its design, however compelling in its refinement. The natural green hues on the sunburst dial and matching alligator strap give the watch a modern character, while the simple case construction hides the complexity of the 5.65 mm thick automatic tourbillon movement, leaving only the aperture at 6 o’clock for the wearer to see and appreciate.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
New Releases:
Reverso Tribute Chronograph Ref. Q389257J in Pink Gold
Why we like it: As with many Reverso models, this unexpected release from Jaeger-LeCoultre has two personalities. On the front of this pink gold watch, the Reverso Tribute Chronograph shows only a black, sunburst finished dial with indices, minute and hour hands in gold. However, once the case is flipped over, the watch displays the time and a 30-minute chronograph skeletonized such that the balance wheel and column wheel are shown. This double personality makes this an attractive piece for an enthusiast’s daily wear, as it shows off the finishing of the movement and can be dressed up or down.
Cartier
New Releases:
Tank Normale Ref. CRWGTA0110 in Yellow Gold
Why we like it: This 2023 novelty from Cartier is the 7th entry into Cartier’s Privé line, and is a thoughtful modernization of an original 1917 design by Louis Cartier; a watch central to the brand’s identity. While small by modern standards, it features a distinctive, squared off case and a domed bezel that evokes the look of the original. This is a watch that will fly under the radar for most, but stand out from the crowd among distinctive collectors.
Conclusion:
With some expected launches and other surprises, we are looking forward to seeing these novelties in person and for them to make their way into the hands of collectors around the world. If you are interested in a new release or a discontinued model, Vintage Grail is here to help you find your next watch in Manila or Hong Kong. Contact us today to book an appointment with our staff to learn more.
