The Patek Philippe 96 Quantieme Lune: A Watch of Imperial Significance

Throughout history, the allure and value of timepieces have often been punctuated by the individuals who have owned them. One such timepiece that bears a riveting tale is a particular Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96 Quantieme Lune, a watch of exceptional rarity and provenance, that was recently sold at the Imperial Patek Philippe Sale in Hong Kong for HKD 48,850,000 (about $6.2 million). It’s the most expensive watch to sell at auction so far in 2023, and the eighth most expensive vintage wristwatch ever sold at auction. With its former ownership traced back to Emperor Aisin-Giro Puyi, the last Emperor of the Qing Dynasty, this exquisite watch speaks volumes of its exceptional lineage and unparalleled craftsmanship. For connoisseurs and enthusiasts of horology, the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96QL transcends beyond a mere accessory into a symbol of history and a unique connection with one of the most enigmatic figures in the annals of Chinese history.

Puyi’s formative years were marked by privilege. Ascending to the throne at the tender age of two, he was constantly attended to by a retinue of servants, prepared to fulfill his every requirement. However, Puyi’s circumstances took a drastic turn as he was later deposed and confined to a Soviet prison from 1945 to 1950. It was during this period that he developed a close friendship with Georgy Permyakov, who assumed the role of his translator.

Puyi’s nephew, Yuyan, recounted in his memoir that Puyi had regularly worn the watch throughout his imprisonment in the Soviet Union. At one point, Puyi briefly entrusted the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96 QL to Yuyan as a temporary gift. However, when officials informed Puyi of his imminent return to China in 1950, he requested the watch’s return from Yuyan, who promptly complied. Puyi then presented the watch to his close friend and translator, Permyakov, who held onto it until his passing. The watch was then bequeathed to his heirs, thus continuing its lineage.

©Phillips

The Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96 Quantieme Lune

The discovery of this Patek Philippe reference 96 with a triple date and moon phase complication holds remarkable significance as one of the most pivotal examples to emerge. Prior to this, only seven Patek Philippe Ref. 96 watches have been acknowledged. The Patek Philippe Ref. 96 owned by Puyi marks the eighth known example to come to light.

Geneva-based case-maker Antoine Gerlach skillfully crafted the platinum Calatrava case, distinguished by the notable “Key number 4″ stamp. The dial showcases elegant Arabic numerals, accompanied by a matching pink gold ring and Feuille hands. Enclosed within the timepiece is an 11”’ Victorin Piguet ébauche movement, which originated during the global economic downturn of 1929, marking the onset of the Great Depression. As a result, the movement was never cased at the time. However, with the groundbreaking introduction of reference 96 in 1932, the manufacturer enhanced and incorporated the movement into a Bauhaus-influenced platinum case in 1937.

©Phillips

Looking closely at the Patek Philippe Ref. 96 owned by Puyi reveals some unique characteristics, particularly with its dial. A fascinating account was shared by Li Guoxiong, one of Puyi’s loyal servants, recounting a day when Puyi was overcome with boredom and curiosity. Puyi wanted to see if the dial of his platinum watch was also crafted from precious metal. Consequently, he instructed Li to carefully remove the surface of the dial to examine its layers. With utmost precision, Li painstakingly removed the paint, revealing that the dial was, in fact, made of brass, in contrast to the platinum casing. As soon as Puyi realized this, he promptly halted his servant from further tampering with the watch.

Highlighting the exceptional scarcity of the timepiece showcased by Phillips, it is noteworthy that only two previous instances with the exact dial configuration featuring an enamel Arabic “Roulette” design have ever emerged. Both examples were encased in platinum and carried consecutive movement numbers. One of these watches currently resides in the esteemed collection of the Patek Philippe Museum, while the second was sold to a private collector in 1996.

©Phillips

Provenance and Watch Value

The provenance of a watch is its history of ownership. A watch with a well-documented provenance – such as its history, condition, and authenticity – can be worth significantly more than a watch with no provenance. As such, it can also add to the watch’s collectability and appeal to collectors.

There are several factors that can affect the provenance of a watch. These include the watch’s history, the identity of its previous owners, and any documentation that accompanies the watch. The more complete and accurate the provenance is, the more valuable the watch is likely to be. A watch with good provenance can also provide peace of mind and help to ensure that the watch is authentic and has been well-maintained. It can also add to the watch’s value and make it more attractive to collectors.

The Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96QL is a watch of exceptional rarity and provenance, with a rich historical and cultural significance. Its former ownership by Puyi adds an extra layer of prestige and interest to an already outstanding timepiece. The sophisticated design and technical excellence of the Patek Philippe brand makes it a highly sought-after piece of horological art, while its ownership history elevates it to a symbol of a bygone era of Chinese royalty. Remarkably prestigious and preserved in its original, unaltered state, exhibiting a consistent patina throughout, this time-capsule piece holds tremendous historical significance and stands as the epitome of its kind.

If you’re seeking to own a piece of horological art with a remarkable story behind it, contact Vintage Grail today, and let us guide you on your journey to acquiring similar extraordinary timepieces.